Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken · 1997
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One of the great sweet wines of the 20th century, from one of the Mosel's most celebrated estates. The Rausch vineyard in Saarburg is pure blue Devonian slate — steep, south-facing, and capable of producing wines of piercing intensity. This 1997 Beerenauslese (BA) was made from individually selected botrytised berries, concentrating the Riesling to an extraordinary degree. After nearly three decades, the wine has developed layers of honeycomb, dried mango, candied ginger, and a hauntingly beautiful petrol note that only aged Riesling can achieve. Despite the residual sugar, the acidity is breathtaking — razor-sharp and seemingly endless, keeping the wine in perfect balance. In magnum format, the evolution has been slower and more graceful. This is a monument of German winemaking. Serve chilled at 8°C. Extraordinary with foie gras, Roquefort, or tarte Tatin — or simply savour it alone as a meditation.